FSM Chippy Hollow Hardware

I’ve always been a fan of this kit so when I was able to pick one up for a reasonable price on Ebay I bought it. I have a nice little spot for it on my layout and the stone building will contrast with many of the clapboard structures I have surrounding it.

Most of this kit is white metal. I spent the first stage of the kit cleaning and organizing all the castings.
The kit only comes with a few bags of stripwood. Mostly for the loading dock area.
I sorted the castings by type. Anything that represents wood or mostly wood will get a earth tone primer. I used Rust-Oleum Khaki Camo paint for this.
All the parts that represent metal got blackened with Jax Pewter Black
I primed all the stonework with gray automotive primer.
After the primer dried I gave it a wash of alcohol and india ink.
Next step I colored some of the stones with different shades of powdered chalks mixed with alcohol to create a stain or wash.
I used so more A&I wash to highlight the cracks but I was careful not to wash over the face of the stones so I didn’t wash off the chalk I had just applied. To accomplish this I used a pointy brush and let the A&I wick in between the stones.
I dry-brushed the stones with a very light tan color. This step really brings the stone texture out.
The wood trim was painted with Apple Barrel Khaki. This is the same color I’ll be using for the doors. The kit calls for Floquil Depot Buff but this is a decent substitute.
A few A&I washes were applied to tone down the color.
These wood blocks go under the stone walls and will be covered with a small clapboard structure on the dockside and a brick structure on the rear.
I started coloring and weathering the doors and windows.
In between drying of the stonework I started painting some castings. I fix my castings to a tongue depressor with double sided carpet tape. Carpet tape holds the castings more securely than 3M double sided tape.
The wooden pieces glued to the top and the bottom of the walls interfere with the other walls they are glued to so I used a razor saw to notch them.
I was having some trouble getting a clean cut with the razor saw so I just hacked this out with a X-acto chisel blade.
I mocked the corners together to make sure I had a tight fit.
I started adding the windows and doors to the walls.
I glued the walls together using 2 part epoxy. George recommends adding the open windows and the little smokestack before assembling the walls but I prefer to do it after. Less chance of knocking them off during the gluing and clamping.
While the walls were drying I colored up a few crates. If I paint 6-12 castings every time I’m waiting for something to dry I should have most of them done when it comes time to start detailing.
In preparation for installing the roof card I added the cross support. Lots of heavy lead pieces glued to the cardboard so it’s important to keep the roof from sagging.
Roof card is glued in place
These 2 pieces will be the base for the lower gable detail.
Here they are glued together.
I made one for the other side and cut them both with a miter box and little hand saw to match the profile of the roof.
Next step is gluing the pieces that go vertically up the bottom of the roof. I used a miter box and a small handsaw to cut these as well.
I added all the roof details before shingling the roof. I prefer to do it this way if I’m using individual shingles. All the chimneys are drilled and I insert half toothpicks in them. I can then just poke a hole in the roof, slide the toothpick in the hole and I don’t have to worry about the chimney moving while it’s drying.
I started shingling the roof. Its a little hard to see but I use a piece of scale 1×3 or 1×4 before the first row to bring the first row of shingles up a bit and simulate a starter row. I’m using cedar sheets from Sierra Scale Models. I cut them into strips and then just chop random shingles out of the strips.
Moving along..
I do about 1 inch at a time and then alternate between the next row and 2 rows on the other side. This way I don’t mess up what I’ve already done.
I added a little piece of patch corrugated metal just to give it a little more character.
Almost done..
I ran a piece of scale 2×2 across the ridge to give the ridge shingles some support and something to glue to.
I finished the ridge cap shingles.